Jewellery, Kate Spade & Unmatched Happiness: An Interview With Ruchita Newrekar
Ruchita Newrekar is a jewellery designer and contemporary artist whose work brims with the dynamism, vibrancy, and elegance of her Indian heritage. Born and raised in Mumbai, India, Ruchita pursued her passion for jewellery design in the United States, where she received her Master of Fine Arts (MFA) degree from the prestigious Savannah College of Art and Design. Her works epitomize a harmonious blend of diversity and inclusivity, which she seamlessly weaves into her conceptual and commercial jewellery designs.
Having worked with fashion icons like Tory Burch and Kate Spade, Ruchita has become a force to reckon with, making waves with her impeccable skills and creativity. Her innovative approach to jewellery design has earned her several accolades, including Honorable Mentions at the International Design Awards (IDA) in both 2021 and 2022, in the professional category of product design.
▶ In this exclusive interview, Ruchita takes us on a journey through her early beginnings as a jewellery designer and her creative inspirations. Prepare to be inspired and captivated.
Ruchita Newrekar. Image courtesy of the the artist.SAH: Can you tell us about your journey as a jewellery designer and artist? What inspired you to pursue this career and how did you get started in the industry?
RN: My late aunt, whom I was very close to, was a jewellery enthusiast. I have spent my formative years being captivated by the jewellery she collected. And when I was pursuing my undergraduate degree in fibres and textiles processing technology (heavily based on advanced chemistry), I always found a way to include design and creativity into my projects.
So, soon after graduation, I decided to seriously explore the idea of doing what I have always wanted to do. Become a creative professional in the jewellery industry. India, as many know, is the hub of gemstone manufacturing, and hence, I had easy access to many innovative jewellery exhibitions that I was eager to be a part of.
But the showcased jewellery was made by industry experts, and to be involved with them on the same platform, my artistic skills needed to be trained on a professional level. Owing to my undying fervour, I began studying and designing jewellery and manufacturing the pieces on a smaller scale, creating a portfolio and applying to universities for postgraduate studies in jewellery that might help me expand my understanding of jewellery.
Ruchita Newrekar. The Good The Bad And Everything In Between. Brass. SAH: As a graduate of the Savannah College of Art and Design, how has your education influenced your artistic style and approach to designing jewellery?
RN: The MFA quarter breakdown was intense, and the rigorous assignments were a much-needed exercise for the untrained metalsmith in me. As I advanced in my graduate studies, I noticed a considerable improvement in my jewellery-making skills. My next project was always more finished and refined than the previous one.
One of the other reasons that I had chosen SCAD was its admirable networking and exposure opportunities.
I don’t remember a dull moment throughout my graduate studies. There was always an ongoing event you could benefit from, be it a museum exhibition, a gallery show, or an art competition.
Observing so many artistic journeys and artworks helped me grow as an artist. Studying art with like-minded individuals who had similar aspirations in the field of art and jewellery, aided me in my personal and professional growth.
As I was working towards my MFA thesis review, I kept on discovering more of my artistic identity. My initial thesis artworks took me on a self-reflective voyage, where I disclosed the concept that I wanted to narrate with the help of contemporary art jewellery.
SAH: Your work seems to fall into both commercial and conceptual aspects of jewellery making.
How do you balance the creative aspect with the market demands of the industry?
RN: I’d be lying if I say that I don’t struggle at all locating a balance between these two aspects of jewellery. The two aesthetics are often found waging war with one another. One thing I noticed that helps me a lot is always knowing your audience and what they expect from you out of a particular project.
Working with companies like Kate Spade New York and Tory Burch LLC., the line separating the commercial jewellery market from the art has become very clear. Commercial jewellery is expected to be traditionally beautiful; the focus is always on its material and aesthetic value as well as form and function.
Contemporary art jewellery, on the other hand, is always looking to push the boundaries of beauty. It will still be visually striking, but in a way that it is challenging its viewer or wearer, far from conventional. Even when I am juggling between the projects of these two different fields, being constantly conscious of the end goals is a requisite.
Ruchita Newrekar. Intermixture. Sterling silver.
Ruchita Newrekar. Melt Away. Sterling silver.SAH: You were born and raised in Mumbai, India and then travelled to the United States for your education. How have both cultures influenced your design aesthetic and personal style?
RN: Growing up in Mumbai, I was exposed to a vibrant and diverse cultural landscape, with influences from Indian, British, and other South Asian cultures. This cultural richness influenced my sense of style and more importantly, my jewellery design aesthetic. Indian jewellery is known for its intricate designs and use of precious gemstones and metals, such as gold and silver.
The traditional jewellery designs in India are often inspired by nature and feature floral and animal motifs. This heritage influenced my design aesthetic and planted in me an appreciation for the beauty and intricacy of traditional jewellery.
On the other hand, studying in the United States exposed me to a different aesthetic and cultural landscape.
American fashion tends to be more minimalistic and focused on functionality, with simple and streamlined designs.
This encouraged me to incorporate more modern and minimalist elements into my jewellery designs. Overall, I think my jewellery design aesthetic and personal style are a result of this unique blend my Indian heritage and my exposure to American culture.
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SAH: Can you walk us through your design process? How do you come up with ideas for new pieces and what steps do you take to bring them to life?
RN: It always begins with gathering inspiration and conducting research. The focal point of the research isn’t always jewellery, sometimes, it is more about enhancing my knowledge of a particular technique or a material. Based on the inspiration and research, I begin sketching rough ideas and concepts.
This stage allows me to explore different shapes, forms, and compositions for my jewellery pieces. Sketching helps to visualize the design and allows for modifications and refinements before moving to the next stage, which is design refinement. This can involve creating more detailed drawings, adding measurements, and considering technical aspects such as structural integrity, wearability, and functionality.
Once the design concept is solidified, then come the material selections and elements that align with the design aesthetic and budget considerations. When it comes to commercial jewellery, I just may add a few more steps depending on the complexity of the design like technical drawings or CADs, prototyping, quality controls, and presentation and marketing.
SAH: Can you share your favourite moments in your career so far?
RN: Some of the pieces that I designed or worked on with the team during my employment with Tory Burch and Kate Spade, have been worn by many celebrities that I admire and respect. I have found those moments to be incredibly emotionally rewarding.
Actually, it’s not even limited to celebrities, I often love hearing from just about everyone on how they related to my piece on a personal and emotional level. Having my creation be cherished by someone, fills me with a deep sense of unmatched happiness.
Ruchita Newrekar. Grandmother, Mother, and I. Sterling silver, enamel, stainless steel pin. SAH: What is your favourite piece of jewellery that you’ve designed and why?
RN: My favourite piece of jewellery is undoubtedly the sterling silver brooch set, “Grandmother, Mother, and I.”
It shows how the generations of women in my family have always supported each other and helped each other bloom.
My mother, who has always been my biggest supporter, taught me the value of hard work and perseverance.
She sacrificed so much to provide for our family. My grandmother, on the other hand, was a woman of incredible strength and resilience. She lived through some of the most tumultuous times in my country’s history, but she never lost her faith in the goodness of people. She was always there to listen, to offer advice, and to give me a much-needed hug when I needed it most.
As I approached the idea of these three brooches, I knew that I wanted to create something that would honour these two amazing women. I hope that when someone wears this piece, they feel the same sense of strength and resilience that my mother and grandmother have always embodied. Because, to me, it serves as a constant reminder that even in the toughest of times, there is always beauty to be found.
SAH: What advice would you give to aspiring jewellery designers and artists who are just starting their careers?
RN: Set standards for yourself, but don’t be too self-critical. You, and only you decide the measurement of your success. Make sure that you invest time and effort in developing your skills, whether that means taking classes, reading books, or practising on your own. Building a successful career in jewellery design does take time and perseverance.
So, don’t get discouraged if you don’t see immediate success, and be willing to put in the work and effort required to achieve your goals. Remember, success often comes to those who are persistent and patient.
Also, the field of jewellery design is constantly evolving, and it’s important to stay on top of emerging trends and technologies. I would definitely recommend attending conferences and workshops and being open to experimenting with new materials and techniques to stay ahead of the curve.
SAH: What’s the best place to purchase your jewellery?
RN: My website: www.ruchitanewrekar.com/contemporary-works. I do entertain enquiries on my Instagram account as well.
Both platforms are constantly updated with my newer works as and when they’re launched.